Unveiling the Essence: A Journey into Perfumery Formulas

In the realm of perfumery, formulas stand as the indispensable blueprints for crafting scents that captivate the senses. With the introduction of synthetic molecules, the ambiguous recipes of old have given way to precise formulas, meticulously detailing the exact proportions of each aromatic component. Despite their pivotal role in scent creation, formulas often occupy a paradoxical position, simultaneously overlooked and concealed. These seemingly simple inventories, reminiscent of bureaucratic tools, can obscure the artistic marvel of a completed fragrance. Moreover, they remain shrouded, for a formula holds the key to scent replication, inadvertently opening the door to imitation. Although this enigma may appear obsolete in the current landscape of scent analysis facilitated by techniques like gas chromatography, the fragrance industry, particularly the mainstream sector, clings to this secrecy, fearing consumer reactions upon discovering the synthetic nature of perfumes (Ch. Burr).

A formula functions as a meticulous list, collecting, arranging, and quantifying ingredients. While diverse artistic disciplines have embraced the aesthetic value of lists, from visual art to literature, the world of perfumery has yet to fully recognize the allure of its core list. In contrast, our exhibition endeavors to present formulas in their entirety, encompassing initial drafts and preliminary sketches, framing them as enchanting creations in their own right. 

This exhibition seeks to elevate the formula itself into a cultural and aesthetic artifact. It delves into the everyday life of formulas and the nuanced aesthetic experiences—both gratifying and discomforting—that they evoke. Our intention is to assemble a diverse collection of formulas, whether they are transcribed on paper, complete with potential annotations, or captured within painstakingly organized spreadsheets. As formulas take shape in various structures—alphabetically ordered, modules, sub-formulas, and olfactory pyramids—we strive to illuminate the craftsmanship inherent in their arrangement, highlighting the aesthetic pleasure entwined within this process.

The aspiration to render formulas visible encapsulates an inherently political endeavor. In the wake of contemporary dialogues on transparency, epitomized by the IAO’s Open Source Scent Culture initiative, the 'Perfumery Code of Ethics’, and other programs, the societal, legal, and political implications of safeguarding scent ingredients as secrets come to the forefront. 

"Unveiling the Essence: A Journey into Perfumery Formulas" unravels the core of the secrecy inherent to perfumery. What visual imprints does this concealed knowledge leave behind? How do formulas find sanctuary? What aesthetics emerge from the pursuit of transparency, from attempting to unveil the enigma encapsulated by each formula? By revealing the intricate world of formulas, we hope to inspire new perspectives on the artistry of perfumery, while fostering an understanding of the delicate balance between concealment and revelation that defines this realm.